戴安娜牛排
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類型 | 主菜 |
---|---|
起源地 | 英國 |
發明者 | 可能是巴爾托洛梅奧·卡爾代羅尼或貝尼亞米諾·斯基亞翁和路易吉·夸利諾 |
主要成分 | 牛排 |
戴安娜牛排(英語:Steak Diane)是一道由煎牛排配以醬汁的菜餚。最初是在餐桌旁現場烹飪[1],有時會焰燒。它很可能是在1930年代的倫敦發明的。從1940年代到60年代,它是所謂「歐陸菜系」的標準菜品[2][3][4][5],現在被認為是復古菜。[6][7][8]
歷史
「戴安娜牛排」並不出現在法餐的經典菜譜中[9];它很可能是在1930年代的倫敦發明的[10],儘管有一種說法認為是在比利時的奧斯坦德。[11]
戴安娜這個名字源自羅馬狩獵女神狄阿娜,曾用於各種與狩獵相關的食物[12],1914年就有記載的「戴安娜鹿肉排」雖然也是煎炒和焰燒,但其醬汁和配料中包含水果,與後來的戴安娜牛排食譜不同。[13]
戴安娜牛排在第二次世界大戰前就已為人所知。1938年的一份倫敦報紙報道了聖莫里茨的巴德呂特皇宮酒店提供「香檳和戴安娜牛排至午夜」。[14]1955年有報道稱,1930年代梅費爾夸利諾餐廳的主廚巴爾托洛梅奧·卡爾代羅尼推廣了「當時罕見的戴安娜牛排,他親自為當時的威爾斯親王(後來的溫莎公爵)烹製這道他最喜歡的菜」。[10]事實上,卡爾代羅尼在1988年聲稱是他發明了這道菜。[15][16]根據1957年的一篇文章,路易斯·蒙巴頓在1930年代是倫敦巴黎咖啡館的常客,「幾乎總是點同樣的晚餐——18個生蚝和戴安娜牛排」。[17]
澳大利亞到1940年便有這道菜,當時一篇關於悉尼羅馬諾餐廳的文章提到它是該餐廳的招牌菜。羅馬諾的領班托尼·克萊里奇說他1938年在倫敦梅菲爾的托尼燒烤餐廳時發明了這道菜,並以戴安娜·曼納斯的名字命名。[18][19]克萊里奇可能是從夏爾·加洛-塞爾瓦那裏學到這道菜的,塞爾瓦曾在倫敦的夸利諾餐廳工作。[19][20][21]
1940年這道菜也已經出現在美國[22][23],儘管當時並不廣為人知。[24]40年代後期,戴安娜牛排經常出現在受紐約社交界歡迎的餐廳菜單上,可能是桌邊焰燒菜品潮流的一部分。[25]德雷克酒店和謝里-尼德蘭酒店的餐廳以及殖民地[26][27]、21俱樂部和亭樓餐廳都供應這道菜。[7][26]在紐約,這道菜通常被認為是德雷克酒店的領班貝尼亞米諾·斯基亞翁(外號「德雷克的尼諾」)所發明的。[5]1968年有人說斯基亞翁與路易吉·夸利諾在比利時奧斯坦德的海灘餐廳發明了這道菜,並以一位「1920年代的美人」[11]或「1920年代歐洲上流社會的一位顯赫女士」的名字命名。[28]在德雷克酒店,它被稱為「尼諾牛排」。[29]2017年,又有人提出里約熱內盧的科帕卡瓦納宮酒店是戴安娜牛排的發明者。[19]
食譜
戴安娜牛排類似於黑椒牛排。[30]早期的食譜材料很少:牛排、黃油、辣醬油、胡椒、鹽和切碎的歐芹[23],可能還有蒜。[31]牛排切薄或拍薄以便快速烹飪,在調味的黃油和辣醬油中煎炒,然後撒上歐芹裝飾。當時並不焰燒。後來的美國版本更加複雜:1953年的三個紐約食譜添加了白蘭地、雪利酒、蝦夷蔥、干芥末和/或檸檬汁。只有一個食譜明確要求火焰烹調:醬汁用白蘭地、干雪利酒或馬德拉酒點火,然後澆在牛排上。[27]一些較新的食譜在醬汁中加入奶油[32][33]或蘑菇[34]或兩者都加。[35]其他的則更類似於較早的食譜。[36]
另見
參考文獻
- ^ Livio Borra, letter to the editor, The Times, 26 July 1958, p. 7
- ^ Max Jacobson, "Blast from a tasty past", Los Angeles Times, March 26, 1998 [1]: "steak Diane and all the other Continental dishes an up-to-date foodie would be embarrassed to admit knowing of"
- ^ Lobel's Culinary Club, August 17, 2012 [2]: "Steak Diane is among those popular dishes in ubiquitous cosmopolitan, Continental-style restaurants of the 1950s and 』60s that combined high style with leather banquettes, white-linen table cloths and dishes of American and European influences, a bit of theater and dramatic preparation."
- ^ Mark R. Vogel, "Diana: The Legacy of the Huntress", FoodReference [3]: "One thing is for sure. Steak Diane was the rage in the 50s and early 60s, especially in New York."
- ^ 5.0 5.1 Pierre Franey, "60-Minute Gourmet; Steak Diane", The New York Times, January 31, 1979 [4]
- ^ Florence Fabricant, "New Wave in the East River: David Burke", The New York Times November 9, 1988, characterizes it as "retro"
- ^ 7.0 7.1 Leah Koenig, "Lost Foods of New York City: Steak Diane", Politico, March 14, 2012 [5]: "Lost Foods of New York City is a column that celebrates the food and drink that once fed the city, but have disappeared.... America’s collective obsession with all things mid-century New York City is back in full martini-slinging force. What better time, then, to celebrate steak Diane—a dish so quintessentially retro-glamorous, it might as well be called steak Don Draper."
- ^ Jan Aaron, 101 Great Choices: Washington DC, Part 3, p. 76
- ^ Louis Saulnier, Le Répertoire de la Cuisine, 1914
- ^ 10.0 10.1 "A Gourmet's Guide", The Sketch, 20 April 1955, pp. 54–55
- ^ 11.0 11.1 "Beniamino Schiavon is Dead; Known as Mr. Nino of the Drake", The New York Times, November 19, 1968, p. 47
- ^ Larousse Gastronomique, 1st edition "Oeufs à la Diane", with purée of game; Bécasse (woodcock) à la Diane; etc.; Larousse Gastronomique, 2001 edition, p. 416; Sauce Diane, a sauce poivrade with cream, truffle, and hard-boiled egg white served with venison in Escoffier's Guide Culinaire (1907)
- ^ A. C. Hoff, ed., Steaks, Chops and Fancy Egg Dishes, International Cooking Library, International Publishing Co., 1914, p. 20 full text
- ^ "Ski Resort in Summer", The Weekly Dispatch, 7 August 1938, p. 2
- ^ "Meo is brought to book at last", "The Times Diary/PHS", The Times, April 11, 1978, p. 16 (column 4, bottom)
- ^ Caterer & Hotelkeeper 179:53 (1988)
- ^ "It Was Fun While it Lasted", The Sketch, 4 December 1957, p. 18
- ^ "Mayfair", "Heard here and There", Sydney Morning Herald, February 29, 1940, p. 19
- ^ 19.0 19.1 19.2 "1939 Steak Diane introduced to Australia", Jan O'Connell, A Timeline of Australian Food: from mutton to MasterChef, 2017, ISBN 1742235344, as quoted on the Australian food history timeline web site
- ^ "Former Host to Royalty Here to Manage Romano's", Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga), May 4, 1951, p. 1
- ^ The Atlantic Monthly, 159:274 (1937)
- ^ Spécialités de la Maison. American Friends of France. 1940.
- ^ 23.0 23.1 Morris, Charlotte Sidle. Favorite Recipes of Famous Musicians. 1941: 38.
- ^ Muir, Helen. "Very Truly Yours", Miami Herald, 21 March 1942, p. 5
- ^ John Fuller, Guéridon and Lamp Cookery: A Complete Guide to Side-table and Flambé Service, 1964, p. 69
- ^ 26.0 26.1 Arthur Schwartz, "21's Steak Diane",[6]archived quoting from Arthur Schwartz, New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes, 2008
- ^ 27.0 27.1 Nickerson, Jane. Steak Worthy of the Name
. New York Times Magazine. January 25, 1953: 32. also quoted in Olver, Lynne. Steak Diane. The Food Timeline. 2000.
- ^ Grace Glueck, "Hotel gives fête for its Maître D'", The New York Times, October 26, 1967, p. 50
- ^ Stanley Turkel, Great American Hotel Architects, 2019, ISBN 1728306892, p. 311
- ^ Mark Bittman, "The Minimalist: A Tender Celebration", The New York Times, 8 February 2006 full text
- ^ "Tony's famous steak Diane", Australian Women's Weekly, 20 October 1954, p. 74
- ^ "Steak Diane for Two", Cooking, The New York Times. Retrieved 4 May 2022
- ^ "Steak Diane", BBC Good Food. Retrieved 4 May 2022
- ^ Patten, Marguerite. Cooking for Two. London: Hamlyn. 1982: 47. ISBN 978-0-60-032273-3. and Paré, Jean. Company's Coming: Main Courses. Edmonton: Company's Coming. 1989: 59. ISBN 978-0-96-933221-3.
- ^ Lagasse, Emeril. Emeril's Delmonico: A Restaurant With a Past. New York: William Morrow. 2005: 172. ISBN 978-0-06-074046-7.
- ^ "Steak Diane", Cooked. Retrieved 4 May 2022