戴安娜牛排
 | |
| 类型 | 主菜 |
|---|---|
| 起源地 | 英国 |
| 发明者 | 可能是巴尔托洛梅奥·卡尔代罗尼或贝尼亚米诺·斯基亚翁和路易吉·夸利诺 |
| 主要成分 | 牛排 |
戴安娜牛排（英語：Steak Diane）是一道由煎牛排配以醬汁的菜餚。最初是在餐桌旁现场烹饪[1]，有时会焰燒。它很可能是在1930年代的伦敦发明的。从1940年代到60年代，它是所谓“欧陆菜系”的标准菜品[2][3][4][5]，现在被认为是复古菜。[6][7][8]
历史
“戴安娜牛排”并不出现在法餐的经典菜谱中[9]；它很可能是在1930年代的伦敦发明的[10]，尽管有一种说法认为是在比利时的奥斯坦德。[11]
戴安娜这个名字源自罗马狩猎女神狄阿娜，曾用于各种与狩猎相关的食物[12]，1914年就有记载的“戴安娜鹿肉排”虽然也是煎炒和焰烧，但其酱汁和配料中包含水果，与后来的戴安娜牛排食谱不同。[13]
戴安娜牛排在第二次世界大战前就已为人所知。1938年的一份伦敦报纸报道了圣莫里茨的巴德吕特皇宫酒店提供“香槟和戴安娜牛排至午夜”。[14]1955年有报道称，1930年代梅费尔夸利诺餐厅的主厨巴尔托洛梅奥·卡尔代罗尼推广了“当时罕见的戴安娜牛排，他亲自为当时的威尔士亲王（后来的温莎公爵）烹制这道他最喜欢的菜”。[10]事实上，卡尔代罗尼在1988年声称是他发明了这道菜。[15][16]根据1957年的一篇文章，路易斯·蒙巴顿在1930年代是伦敦巴黎咖啡馆的常客，“几乎总是点同样的晚餐——18个生蚝和戴安娜牛排”。[17]
澳大利亚到1940年便有这道菜，当时一篇关于悉尼罗马诺餐厅的文章提到它是该餐厅的招牌菜。罗马诺的领班托尼·克莱里奇说他1938年在伦敦梅菲尔的托尼烧烤餐厅时发明了这道菜，并以黛安娜·曼納斯的名字命名。[18][19]克莱里奇可能是从夏尔·加洛-塞尔瓦那里学到这道菜的，塞尔瓦曾在伦敦的夸利诺餐厅工作。[19][20][21]
1940年这道菜也已经出现在美国[22][23]，尽管当时并不广为人知。[24]40年代后期，戴安娜牛排经常出现在受纽约社交界欢迎的餐厅菜单上，可能是桌边焰烧菜品潮流的一部分。[25]德雷克酒店和谢里-尼德兰酒店的餐厅以及殖民地[26][27]、21俱樂部和亭楼餐厅都供应这道菜。[7][26]在纽约，这道菜通常被认为是德雷克酒店的领班贝尼亚米诺·斯基亚翁（外号“德雷克的尼诺”）所发明的。[5]1968年有人说斯基亚翁与路易吉·夸利诺在比利时奥斯坦德的海滩餐厅发明了这道菜，并以一位“1920年代的美人”[11]或“1920年代欧洲上流社会的一位显赫女士”的名字命名。[28]在德雷克酒店，它被称为“尼诺牛排”。[29]2017年，又有人提出里约热内卢的科帕卡瓦纳宫酒店是戴安娜牛排的发明者。[19]
食谱
戴安娜牛排类似于黑椒牛排。[30]早期的食谱材料很少：牛排、黄油、辣醬油、胡椒、盐和切碎的欧芹[23]，可能还有蒜。[31]牛排切薄或拍薄以便快速烹饪，在调味的黄油和辣酱油中煎炒，然后撒上欧芹装饰。当时并不焰烧。后来的美国版本更加复杂：1953年的三个纽约食谱添加了白兰地、雪利酒、蝦夷蔥、干芥末和/或柠檬汁。只有一个食谱明确要求火焰烹调：酱汁用白兰地、干雪利酒或马德拉酒点火，然后浇在牛排上。[27]一些较新的食谱在酱汁中加入奶油[32][33]或蘑菇[34]或两者都加。[35]其他的则更类似于较早的食谱。[36]
另见
参考文献
- ^ Livio Borra, letter to the editor, The Times, 26 July 1958, p. 7
- ^ Max Jacobson, "Blast from a tasty past", Los Angeles Times, March 26, 1998 [1]: "steak Diane and all the other Continental dishes an up-to-date foodie would be embarrassed to admit knowing of"
- ^ Lobel's Culinary Club, August 17, 2012 [2]: "Steak Diane is among those popular dishes in ubiquitous cosmopolitan, Continental-style restaurants of the 1950s and ’60s that combined high style with leather banquettes, white-linen table cloths and dishes of American and European influences, a bit of theater and dramatic preparation."
- ^ Mark R. Vogel, "Diana: The Legacy of the Huntress", FoodReference [3]: "One thing is for sure. Steak Diane was the rage in the 50s and early 60s, especially in New York."
- ^ 5.0 5.1 Pierre Franey, "60-Minute Gourmet; Steak Diane", The New York Times, January 31, 1979 [4]
- ^ Florence Fabricant, "New Wave in the East River: David Burke", The New York Times November 9, 1988, characterizes it as "retro"
- ^ 7.0 7.1 Leah Koenig, "Lost Foods of New York City: Steak Diane", Politico, March 14, 2012 [5]: "Lost Foods of New York City is a column that celebrates the food and drink that once fed the city, but have disappeared.... America’s collective obsession with all things mid-century New York City is back in full martini-slinging force. What better time, then, to celebrate steak Diane—a dish so quintessentially retro-glamorous, it might as well be called steak Don Draper."
- ^ Jan Aaron, 101 Great Choices: Washington DC, Part 3, p. 76
- ^ Louis Saulnier, Le Répertoire de la Cuisine, 1914
- ^ 10.0 10.1 "A Gourmet's Guide", The Sketch, 20 April 1955, pp. 54–55
- ^ 11.0 11.1 "Beniamino Schiavon is Dead; Known as Mr. Nino of the Drake", The New York Times, November 19, 1968, p. 47
- ^ Larousse Gastronomique, 1st edition "Oeufs à la Diane", with purée of game; Bécasse (woodcock) à la Diane; etc.; Larousse Gastronomique, 2001 edition, p. 416; Sauce Diane, a sauce poivrade with cream, truffle, and hard-boiled egg white served with venison in Escoffier's Guide Culinaire (1907)
- ^ A. C. Hoff, ed., Steaks, Chops and Fancy Egg Dishes, International Cooking Library, International Publishing Co., 1914, p. 20 full text
- ^ "Ski Resort in Summer", The Weekly Dispatch, 7 August 1938, p. 2
- ^ "Meo is brought to book at last", "The Times Diary/PHS", The Times, April 11, 1978, p. 16 (column 4, bottom)
- ^ Caterer & Hotelkeeper 179:53 (1988)
- ^ "It Was Fun While it Lasted", The Sketch, 4 December 1957, p. 18
- ^ "Mayfair", "Heard here and There", Sydney Morning Herald, February 29, 1940, p. 19
- ^ 19.0 19.1 19.2 "1939 Steak Diane introduced to Australia", Jan O'Connell, A Timeline of Australian Food: from mutton to MasterChef, 2017, ISBN 1742235344, as quoted on the Australian food history timeline web site
- ^ "Former Host to Royalty Here to Manage Romano's", Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga), May 4, 1951, p. 1
- ^ The Atlantic Monthly, 159:274 (1937)
- ^ Spécialités de la Maison. American Friends of France. 1940.
- ^ 23.0 23.1 Morris, Charlotte Sidle. Favorite Recipes of Famous Musicians. 1941: 38.
- ^ Muir, Helen. "Very Truly Yours", Miami Herald, 21 March 1942, p. 5
- ^ John Fuller, Guéridon and Lamp Cookery: A Complete Guide to Side-table and Flambé Service, 1964, p. 69
- ^ 26.0 26.1 Arthur Schwartz, "21's Steak Diane",[6]archived quoting from Arthur Schwartz, New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes, 2008
- ^ 27.0 27.1 Nickerson, Jane. Steak Worthy of the Name
. New York Times Magazine. January 25, 1953: 32. also quoted in Olver, Lynne. Steak Diane. The Food Timeline. 2000.
- ^ Grace Glueck, "Hotel gives fête for its Maître D'", The New York Times, October 26, 1967, p. 50
- ^ Stanley Turkel, Great American Hotel Architects, 2019, ISBN 1728306892, p. 311
- ^ Mark Bittman, "The Minimalist: A Tender Celebration", The New York Times, 8 February 2006 full text
- ^ "Tony's famous steak Diane", Australian Women's Weekly, 20 October 1954, p. 74
- ^ "Steak Diane for Two", Cooking, The New York Times. Retrieved 4 May 2022
- ^ "Steak Diane", BBC Good Food. Retrieved 4 May 2022
- ^ Patten, Marguerite. Cooking for Two. London: Hamlyn. 1982: 47. ISBN 978-0-60-032273-3. and Paré, Jean. Company's Coming: Main Courses. Edmonton: Company's Coming. 1989: 59. ISBN 978-0-96-933221-3.
- ^ Lagasse, Emeril. Emeril's Delmonico: A Restaurant With a Past. New York: William Morrow. 2005: 172. ISBN 978-0-06-074046-7.
- ^ "Steak Diane", Cooked. Retrieved 4 May 2022
